Sunday, August 30, 2009

Matsugen NY



Had lunch at Jean-Georges' Matsugen the other day. Such a huge modern space - it's a shame hardly anyone was there, which makes me wonder how long this place will last. They offer a $24 prix-fixe menu, but I didn't want to fill my stomach with miso soup and seaweed salad. So we ordered a la carte. Started with the homemade tofu and yuba (tofu skin) appetizers, both were pretty good, though you probably could get the same quality tofu for half the price in a tofu shop in Chinatown. For entrees, we had the Matsugen soba (pic above) (a soba salad mixed with yam, egg, bonito, myoga, cucumber, wasabi, okra, sesame, scallion and seaweed) and the cold soba with kamoseiro (duck soup) and a side of goma dare (sesame dipping sauce). Both dishes were pretty good. I liked the goma dare sauce - not a common soba dipping sauce. I'd like to think that I'm a soba connoisseur as I ate soba almost everyday when I lived in Japan and I've eaten at many of the soba restaurants in NYC. So when I say the soba here was pretty good, you should trust that it was. Was it so great that it's worth the $$? Well, there are plenty of other soba places in NYC that serve the same quality soba, if not better, for slightly less. Check out Soba Koh, Soba-ya, Sakagura (serving soba at lunch only), and Soba Nippon. If you're in Tribeca and are craving soba, then you won't be disappointed in Matsugen. To reserve a table: http://www.jean-georges.com/

Taj Mahal --Get There Early

No trip to India is complete without making the trek to Agra, which is not the prettiest city. Once you step into the gates of the Taj Mahal, all the noise, grime and pollution of Agra fades away. I'd recommend arriving at sunrise to appreciate this impressive mausoleum without the crowds. The white marble facade with the rich colorful inlays and carvings are so intricately detailed -- it's no wonder the Taj took over 20 years to complete. It's hard to imagine a man loving his wife so much that he built this enormous complex in memory of her. These days that just doesn't happen no matter how much money you have. Imagine Bill Gates doing this for his wife? The grounds are a peaceful respite from the hectic hustle and bustle of Agra. You won't feel rushed here nor have the urge to leave and continue on with your itinerary. Take a stroll and simply admire the beauty of your surroundings and the finest display of Mughal architecture. The other stand alone structures in the complex are also worth noting as they also contain beautiful carvings and paintings. They also offer you different views of the Taj worth photographing. Open everyday from sunrise to sunset (except Fridays).

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Where are the Tigers?

There is only one reason to endure the above 40°C temperatures in an open air jeep in India -- to get close to a tiger in Ranthambore National Park. A tiger safari in India is not at all like that in Africa. African safaris spoil you with the massive amount of game. Here, you're tracking one of the most endangered and elusive cats in the world. Whether you see a tiger depends on your luck. You'll see lots of peacocks, deers, and monkeys, but that's not what drew me here. It could be worse, you could be stuck in a "canter" (an open air truck carrying 25 locals) if you don't book your jeep ahead of time. I cannot stress this enough -- book a jeep online in advance or stay in a luxury hotel and they'll do it for you at a premium! Unfortunately, we had to endure one bumpy ride in a canter and it was hell -- uncomfortable, slow, and noisy. It didn't help that the locals probably scared the tigers away by smoking. Another frustrating aspect of the tiger safari is that there are five zones where a limited amount of jeeps and canters can enter. The zone you get stuck with is chosen at random and you can't request or pay extra to go to the zone where a tiger was recently spotted. I won't say that the tiger safari was a waste of time as we did see one tiger hiding in a cave (too far away to capture on camera) and the scenery and ruins were beautiful. Our hotel, Khem Villas, also made the trip worthwhile (although they were the ones that couldn't secure a jeep at the last minute). We'll have to revisit between October and April to test our luck again. Ranthambore National Park is open from October 1- June 30. To book a jeep: http://www.rajasthanwildlife.in/ To book a stay: http://www.khemvillas.com

Monday, August 24, 2009

Floating Over the Masai Mara

Who looks forward to getting up before dawn while on vacation? You would if you were about to go on a safari in a hot air balloon. Eight of us squeezed into a basket and waited for lift off in the darkness. Before I knew it, we were drifting over herds of animals in Kenya's Masai Mara and watching the sunrise. Though the wind was pushing us, I hardly felt any movement. It was very calm and serene. The sound of the occasional firing of the burners disrupted the silence. The hour journey took us over the Mara River where we could see hippos bathing. The "soft landing" was not as "soft" as I'd have liked as we were dragged a bit before tipping over, but I quickly forgot about it when I saw the champagne and breakfast being set up in the bush. Definitely an "Out of Africa" experience. A seat in the basket will set you back $400 per person, which is not a steal, but if you plan on experiencing this once in your lifetime, this is the place to do it. To reserve: http://www.governorscamp.com/property_activities_masai_mara_hot_air_ballooning.php

Raft from Argentina to Chile

I can't swim so I must have had a death wish when I chose a Class IV white water rafting tour that requires you to be a "confident swimmer." I figured what could go wrong as long as I have a life jacket and safety kayakers by my side. Luckily, nothing bad happened to me but I can't say the same for the guys who fell overboard into the glacier-fed Manso River in Argentina. Did I mention that it was also snowing that day? Within minutes, I was part of a rescue team saving my fellow rafters. You'd be surprised what you can do when the adrenaline is pumping. After rafting for two hours through the deep canyons and intense rapids, we arrived at the Chilean border where we we celebrated the day's events with some Argentinian wine and a Patagonian barbecue. For more info: http://www.aguasblancas.com.ar/english/adventure-rafting-manso-river-chile-frontier-patagonia.shtml

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Stony Brook Vineyard, South Africa

After visiting so many commercial wineries in Franschhoek Valley, South Africa, we were delighted to find the family-run Stony Brook Vineyards. We felt like we had just walked into someone's home. The owner brought us to the verandah and we tasted some of the best South African wine. The "Ghost Gum Cabernet Sauvignon" was a winner. You'll end up buying many bottles as we did. Worried you can't finish it all? Some of the restaurants in Franschhoek allow BYOB -- just ask. Headed for a safari and can't carry it all? Give your wine as a "tip" at hotels. Do that and you may score upgrades. Don't bother shipping wine back home as it's exorbitantly expensive. Put Stony Brook at the top of your list when touring the winelands. For more info: http://www.stonybrook.co.za/index.html

Tracking a Leopard

Believe it or not, you'll get bored after a day of seeing elephants, zebras and giraffes. You'll never get bored of tracking predators (lions, cheetahs, and leopards). We couldn't leave Botswana without finding a leopard. After a couple of hours tracking a leopard, we found it hidden among the bush stalking a baby elephant. We watched in silence. Within seconds, there was chaos. The birds signaled the elephants that a predator was near. The elephants trumpeted and a huge herd ran to protect its babies. A lone elephant bull came out of nowhere and chased the leopard away. It's a shame that our cameras were not fast enough to capture all the action, which lasted less than a minute. We caught up with the leopard and watched it hunt a guinea fowl. That couldn't have satisfied the leopard's appetite. The leopard was back on the hunt within minutes but unfortunately it was time for us to go. You always have to keep your eyes open as you never know what you're going to find on a safari. To book a safari: http://www.kwando.co.za/

Snowmobiling on an Ice Cap

I can't imagine a better way to see Iceland than to go snowmobiling on the Myrdalsjökull glacier in southern Iceland. Don't worry, it's probably unlikely that the underlying volcano will erupt while you're snowmobiling across its ice cap. At speeds of almost 40 mph, you're in for a thrilling ride. There are no trees to obstruct your view of the sea, sky and glacier. The only downside is that the tour costs $200 for the hour ride, which is too short for the hefty price tag if you ask me. For more info: http://www.adventures.is/Iceland/SnowScooter/Myrdalsjokullglacier

Saturday, August 22, 2009

View of Mt. Everest by Plane

If you're out of shape, broke, or have time constraints, but still want to see Mt. Everest, I recommend you book a flight on Buddha Air to at least say you saw it. The hour flight from Kathmandu gives you a breathtaking panoramic view of the Himalayas. There are no FAA rules here as the pilots invited me into the cockpit so I could take this picture. I'm glad I got a chance to see Mt. Everest without having to risk death to climb it. Who am I kidding, there is no way I could even make it to base camp. (Note: If you're heading to Bhutan from Nepal on Druk Air, you'll see the same view on your flight so save your money.) To book a flight: http://www.buddhaair.com/everestexperience.html

Ziplining in Mombacho Cloud Forest, Nicaragua

Lynmar Winery: Russian River Valley

These days I much prefer spending my days wine tasting in the Russian River Valley as opposed to Napa Valley, which I find very commercial and congested. At Lynmar winery, I can relax and sip Pinot Noir and Chardonnay while nibbling on the tasty food pairings. Not to mention that the view of the rolling vineyards from their outside patio is superb. Few people have discovered this intimate place. Lynmar wines are so enjoyable, they are served at the White House. It's unlikely that I'll be invited to dine at the White House in my lifetime so at least I know I can keep coming back here to taste the wine. To visit: http://www.lynmarwinery.com/

Ice Trekking on a Glacier

Reaching the center of the Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina with crampons strapped to your feet is no easy task. After four hours of hiking and rappelling, you'll be begging for a foot massage. Several types of ice trek tours are offered in Calafate, ranging from easy to hard. Push yourself and sign up for the "Big Ice" trek offered by Hielo y Aventura, which allows you to experience more of the glacier. This trek is geared for fit people between the ages of 18 and 45. I'll be the first to tell you that I'm not what most consider "fit," but I can walk a fair distance without huffing and puffing. So if I can do it, it can't be that hard. After a couple of hours of trekking, you'll find yourself at the center of the glacier where you can have a picnic and a warm cup of yerba mate tea. It gets better -- on the ferry ride back, you'll be drinking a "scotch on the glacier rocks." Savor the moment as this is the only place where the "rocks" are older than the scotch. For more info: http://www.hieloyaventura.com

JAWS

If you can't swim, why would you ever get into a shark cage? As a fan of Discovery Show's "Shark Week," I couldn't pass up the opportunity to get up close to a great white at Seal Island, South Africa. Being separated from a 20 ft predator by a metal cage may seem unnerving to some, but the feeling you get when the shark approaches is unmeasurable. Pure excitement is rushing through your veins and you can't decide if you want the shark to linger or swim away. If you're lucky, you may also get to see a shark breach. Unfortunately, that didn't happen for us. Regardless, this trip was worth getting up at the crack of dawn. For more info: http://www.ultimate-animals.com/

Adour Alain Ducasse

Had the pleasure of dining at Adour Alain Ducasse at the St. Regis in New York last night. The dining room is intimate and elegant. The meal and service were fantastic from start to finish. We started with a cucumber granite amuse bouche to cleanse the palate. For an appetizer, we had the Tender Ricotta Gnocchi with wild mushrooms, sauteed lettuce and crispy proscuitto and the Sweetbread "Meuniere," Egg Purse with wild mushrooms and brioche. The gnocchi was so light and airy. The sweetbread was tender and flavorful. For entrees, we had the Roasted Atlantic Halibut with razor clams, calamari and a green vegetable condiment (above pic) and the Grenadin of Milk Fed Veal with carrot contrast, "Laitue Farcie," and veal jus. The halibut was cooked perfectly and the sauce was divine. The veal would have been better if it was more rare, but overall it was tasty. We ended the evening with the Contemporary Exotic Vacherin (mango marmalade, coconut, and passionfruit emulsion), which was refreshing and tart with a hint of sweetness. We also had complimentary macaroons and chocolates, which were a nice touch. There is no recession special here so I would highly recommend Adour for a special occasion or if you just have plenty of cash to burn. To make a reservation: http://www.adour-stregis.com/

Survived a Lightning Strike

I'm lucky to be alive after lightning struck the nose of our plane in mid air. A bolt of light flashed through the plane and the plane jerked sideways after take off. It was pretty frightening but knowing that planes are built to withstand lightning, I fell back asleep to my husband's surprise. It was only after we returned back to Reykjavik airport when I saw the damage that I realized what had happened. Thank God for the airport bar.

Friday, August 21, 2009

The Way to See Victoria Falls

Why get in a helicopter when you can strap yourself in a plastic chair with only a tiny motor and the wind to guide you? I'm a chicken so I chose the helicopter first. Poor choice -- it was fun for a minute and a waste of $100. A microlight brings you much closer to the Falls (and possibly death). Live a little -- the wind, the silence, and the sheer fear cannot be beat. Don't miss this while in Zambia. For more info: http://www.batokasky.com

Time to Add Sandboarding to Your To-Do-List

For only $25, you can sandboard down the black slopes of Cerro Negro, an active volcano in Nicaragua. You don't need to snowboard to look like a pro. You do, however, need to have a taste for adventure and be able to hike an hour up the 728 meters (2,388 ft) volcano while carrying a wooden board. Or you can do what I did, beg the guide to hold your board and give him a good tip. With only garden gloves and plastic goggles to protect you from the ash, you'll be speeding down the volcano in no time. Want more of an adrenaline rush? Try sandboarding with only the light of the full moon to guide you. Tierra Tour in Leon can take you on the half-day tour. For more info: http://tierratour.com

Brave Enough to Ride an Ostrich?

So long as you weigh less than 75kg (165 lbs), you can straddle one of these birds in Oudtshoorn, South Africa. This is not the most comfortable ride (and some people may find it a bit cruel) but it sure is fun. There is no saddle or harness to keep you in place. Rather, you keep from falling by holding on to the bird's feathered wings. Once the handlers pull off the ostrich's hood, you will be sprinting across the dirt field in no time. Just when you get the hang of it, the ride is over. You can experience this strange ride at one of the many ostrich farms in Oudtshoorn, including the Cango Ostrich Show Farm. For more info: http://www.cangoostrich.co.za

Get Dirty in a Mud Volcano

A short drive from Cartagena, Colombia, brings you to El Totumo, an active 2300 meter (7,500 ft) deep mud volcano. Upon arrival, you walk up some wooden stairs and plunge into the cool mud. You are constantly reminded that you are sitting in an active volcano as mud bubbles surround you. Perhaps you think you are at some strange spa as there are plenty of masseurs on hand. I'll admit it was a little strange having local men "massage" me while I was floating in the so-called therapeutic mud. My husband sure wasn't a fan of getting a rub-down. What's better (or worse) is having the local women scrub the mud off of us in the nearby river. Yes, they do strip you naked. Many hotels and tour companies in Cartagena can set you up on the half-day tour.

The Tortoise and Me

You may be tempted to ride a tortoise but too bad you're not at a zoo. You do get so close to it that you can smell its breath (not sure if that's really a good thing). When going to the Galapagos, don't just stay on the main island and take day trips. You will be wasting your time and not going very far. Instead, you must board an overnight boat for at least five days and deal with the likelihood of getting seasick. A small yacht with a handful of passengers is your best bet so you won't have to fight the hordes of tourists flocking to each island. Everyday you travel from island to island in search of different species and fauna. An advantage of being on a small boat is that you and your fellow travelers can ask the guide to let you off so you can snorkel among penguins, marine iguanas, sharks, and the "dogs" of the sea (sea lions). A disadvantage is that you may be stuck on a small boat with annoying people and have nowhere to hide. You'll have to outweigh the pros and cons. To plan a trip, pick up: "The Traveler's Guide to the Galapagos" by Barry Boyce, which offers great detail on various tour companies and yachts operating in the Galapagos.

Bhutan's Lucky Charm


Ireland has its four leaf clover. Turkey has its evil eye amulet. Some countries believe in the rabbit's foot. Bhutan's version of a good luck charm is none of the above. Rather, it is the penis. For a country that is so conservative and religious, I was shocked to see paintings of penises (mostly in red) adorning houses, restaurants and shops everywhere. What's so lucky about a penis? Our guide said that Bhutanese people believe that the symbol protects them in their home and wards off the evil eye. I don't really see how that can be, but then again I don't really believe in the other lucky charms either. Be sure to pick up a penis key chain for the trip home. To book a trip:  www.bhutanscenictours.com

Forget Maine Lobster

Hotel Suyapa in Las Penitas, Nicaragua not only offers a gorgeous view of the Pacific Ocean, it also serves one of the best grilled lobster I have ever tasted (and I have eaten more than my fair share of lobster). For less than $10, you can eat barefoot on the beach while watching the sunset. Start your meal off with a frozen Macua, a refreshing Nicaraguan cocktail made from Flor de Cana aged white rum, guava nectar, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, and orange juice. The food, the view, the drinks, and the few, if any, tourists -- what could be better? To find Hotel Suyapa: http://www.suyapabeach.com

Don't Forget the Lamb in Argentina!

With all the talk about the beef in Argentina, don't miss out on the lamb. One of our best meals in Patagonia was cooked over a fire pit in the parking lot of our hotel in Puerto Piramides (a town famous for viewing the southern right whales). After waiting patiently for two hours, the rancher finally said the magic words, "it's ready." It was worth the wait! The lamb was succulent, juicy and fell off the bone. A bottle of Malbec and Patagonian lamb hit the spot. To taste this for yourself, head over to the parking lot of Hosteria Paradise. For more info: http://www.hosteriaparadise.com.ar/

Hiking to Find Gorillas

After a grueling 5 hour hike through the thick bush of Rwanda's Parc National des Volcans, we finally found what we were looking for - the Susa group of gorillas. We were able to get within a few feet of these enormous animals and observe them in their natural habitat. The baby gorillas tugged at us as if they were inviting us to play. The whole experience is surreal. Imagine hanging out with a silverback? We could have spent the whole day watching them, but unfortunately our park permits limited us to only an hour. Better to book the permits in advance with a tour company as there are only a handful of permits available per day. Hanging out with gorillas is not cheap. The permits cost approx. $500 per person, per day, but it is more than worth it. Better bite the bullet now as prices are just going to increase as more people discover Rwanda as a vacation spot. You may be asking, "Is Rwanda safe?" I'd say that these days it's safer than parts of New York. For more info: http://www.rwandatourism.com

Where I've Been